요새 며칠간 않좋은 머리 돌리느라 흰머리가 더욱 늘었습니다. FT817이란 넘 때문인데요.. 아시다 시피 제가 사는동네는 산이 많고 , 캠핑장이나 조금 멀리 떨어지면 2 meter나 손전화가 불통 인곳이 많습니다. 도심에서 한시간 거리인곳인 공원도 산속에 있다보니 외부와는 연락이 안되는 곳이많지요.. 그래서 생각한게 HF 포터블 RIG통신인데요… FT817 요넘 오랬동안 욕심만 내다가 겨우 구했지요…
근데.. 정격 출력은 5와트인데, 배터리 상태에 따라 출력이 비실비실이예요. 옛날 헨트론 같이 10와트만 되면 실용상 충분하겠는데. 따로 리니어 앰프를 들고다니자니 전용배터리 따로…애고 많이 불편하겠지요…
그래서 인터넷을 뒤지다가 817 출력을 10~15와트로 개조하는 글이 있어서 “이거다” 하고 좀더 정보를 찾고 있었는데, 왠걸 N2RDB 란 양반이 쓴글을 보니 개조해서 사용한 분들이 드라이버단과 종단의 TR이 고장난 경우가 많다는 거예요..
당연한 이야기 겠죠.. 설계당시 출력과 방열등을 고려해서 제조했는데 무단 개조 헀으니..
그래서 할수없이 소출력 포터블 리니어앰프나, CB용 리니어를 개조하는 방법도 찾아보았는데 100W용은 있고 쪼끄만한것은 마땅한게 없네요. 포기하고 불편을 감수하고 쓰기에는 너무 아까운 기계인데..
고수 오엠님들의 고견을 부탁 드립니다
아래글은 N2RDB님의 글입니다.
==========================
Contact author:
N2RDB
There are a whole bunch of mods out there geared toward increasing the power output of the FT817 series of the Yaesu transceiver line. People claim that they have modified their rigs to put out 10, 12 or even 15 watts. Many of these so-called "mods" involve altering software settings in a supposedly "hidden" menu, making exaggerated claims of enhanced performance.
My advice is, don't do it. Forget it. It is a "pipe dream". An acquaintance of mine, who has repaired many of these rigs, tells me that he has seen the "results" of these mods: fried drivers and finals, and charred circuit boards and components.
Think about it: the people at Yaesu designed this rig to be a 5 WATT radio. Are you going to risk damaging a radio for which you just paid nearly $600? If you really want more power, buy a rig with a higher output rating.
Or, try this. Build yourself a low-power "linear" amp for the rig.
Here is a link to get you started: http://www.hfprojectsyahoo.com/amps.html
and there are other sites as well. Try the "HF packer" amp. You can run the rig at the 2.5 watt setting, and the amp will give you about 35 watts out with a 7 amp power supply.
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새로 첨부합니다. FT-817 10 Watts output
There are suggestions to set the FT817 to get the maximum possible output of 15 Watts from an FT817, but I consider this similar to believing in Santa Claus – do you really believe that Yaesu would overdesign the Filters, Relays and Power feeds to cope with THREE times as much power as they advertise the unit for ?
The 15 watt mod also totally disables the DC current limiting. Expect to see charred coils, DC filters and PC board next time you look inside your rig – a fan on the heatsink won’t stop this. For a rig that has no over-temperature indication or protection of any sort, tripling the power level is designing for disaster.
This procedure here will increase power to 10 watts on HF bands only, but ensures that the DC Over-current protection will reduce power into abnormal loads that the SWR detector cannot detect. SWR bridges are a only a compromise at detecting reflected power – that’s why Yaesu went to the effort of building in DC Over-current protection as well as high-SWR protection.
Here is the recommended procedure, you will need a Dummy Load and a Wattmeter or RF Voltmeter. Make a note of your original calibration settings so you can go back to the standard setting later – the easiest way to do this is to use FT817 Commander freeware. It is also easy to accidentally change a value by bumping the Dial knob, and you need to be able to get back to the original setting.
If you have a Key connected, set the VFO to CW on 1.8, 7 and 21 MHz bands – if you don’t have a Key, then set them to PKT and you will be able to get full carrier using Mic PTT but with no modulation going out.
Turn the radio off. Press and hold the three A, B, C buttons and press the PWR button. To change to a different Menu item turn the small SEL knob. To change the value of the item, turn the large Dial knob. Be careful not to bump the Dial knob so you don’t accidentally change settings..
1. Increase HF1-IC to 150.
2. Increase HF1-HI for an output of 14 watts - you will need at least 12 volts input.
3. Decrease HF1-IC until you get 12 watts output
4. Now set HF1-HI for 10 watts output.
5. Repeat for HF2 and HF3
You could also change HF1-L3 to 5 watts to save battery drain when 10 watts isn’t needed.
If you are using an RF Voltmeter the readings are 0.5W=5v 1W=7v 2.5W=11v 5W=16v 10W=22v 12W=24v 14=26v.
To avoid de-calibrating the Voltmeter, set your supply to 13.8 volts – otherwise if you just flick over the DC volts position (Item 17 - VCC) you will recalibrate it.
To save these changed settings, hold the F button for two seconds when finished.
친절하게 잘설명해주셨네요..
근데.. 정격 출력은 5와트인데, 배터리 상태에 따라 출력이 비실비실이예요. 옛날 헨트론 같이 10와트만 되면 실용상 충분하겠는데. 따로 리니어 앰프를 들고다니자니 전용배터리 따로…애고 많이 불편하겠지요…
그래서 인터넷을 뒤지다가 817 출력을 10~15와트로 개조하는 글이 있어서 “이거다” 하고 좀더 정보를 찾고 있었는데, 왠걸 N2RDB 란 양반이 쓴글을 보니 개조해서 사용한 분들이 드라이버단과 종단의 TR이 고장난 경우가 많다는 거예요..
당연한 이야기 겠죠.. 설계당시 출력과 방열등을 고려해서 제조했는데 무단 개조 헀으니..
그래서 할수없이 소출력 포터블 리니어앰프나, CB용 리니어를 개조하는 방법도 찾아보았는데 100W용은 있고 쪼끄만한것은 마땅한게 없네요. 포기하고 불편을 감수하고 쓰기에는 너무 아까운 기계인데..
고수 오엠님들의 고견을 부탁 드립니다
아래글은 N2RDB님의 글입니다.
==========================
Contact author:
N2RDB
There are a whole bunch of mods out there geared toward increasing the power output of the FT817 series of the Yaesu transceiver line. People claim that they have modified their rigs to put out 10, 12 or even 15 watts. Many of these so-called "mods" involve altering software settings in a supposedly "hidden" menu, making exaggerated claims of enhanced performance.
My advice is, don't do it. Forget it. It is a "pipe dream". An acquaintance of mine, who has repaired many of these rigs, tells me that he has seen the "results" of these mods: fried drivers and finals, and charred circuit boards and components.
Think about it: the people at Yaesu designed this rig to be a 5 WATT radio. Are you going to risk damaging a radio for which you just paid nearly $600? If you really want more power, buy a rig with a higher output rating.
Or, try this. Build yourself a low-power "linear" amp for the rig.
Here is a link to get you started: http://www.hfprojectsyahoo.com/amps.html
and there are other sites as well. Try the "HF packer" amp. You can run the rig at the 2.5 watt setting, and the amp will give you about 35 watts out with a 7 amp power supply.
=======
새로 첨부합니다. FT-817 10 Watts output
There are suggestions to set the FT817 to get the maximum possible output of 15 Watts from an FT817, but I consider this similar to believing in Santa Claus – do you really believe that Yaesu would overdesign the Filters, Relays and Power feeds to cope with THREE times as much power as they advertise the unit for ?
The 15 watt mod also totally disables the DC current limiting. Expect to see charred coils, DC filters and PC board next time you look inside your rig – a fan on the heatsink won’t stop this. For a rig that has no over-temperature indication or protection of any sort, tripling the power level is designing for disaster.
This procedure here will increase power to 10 watts on HF bands only, but ensures that the DC Over-current protection will reduce power into abnormal loads that the SWR detector cannot detect. SWR bridges are a only a compromise at detecting reflected power – that’s why Yaesu went to the effort of building in DC Over-current protection as well as high-SWR protection.
Here is the recommended procedure, you will need a Dummy Load and a Wattmeter or RF Voltmeter. Make a note of your original calibration settings so you can go back to the standard setting later – the easiest way to do this is to use FT817 Commander freeware. It is also easy to accidentally change a value by bumping the Dial knob, and you need to be able to get back to the original setting.
If you have a Key connected, set the VFO to CW on 1.8, 7 and 21 MHz bands – if you don’t have a Key, then set them to PKT and you will be able to get full carrier using Mic PTT but with no modulation going out.
Turn the radio off. Press and hold the three A, B, C buttons and press the PWR button. To change to a different Menu item turn the small SEL knob. To change the value of the item, turn the large Dial knob. Be careful not to bump the Dial knob so you don’t accidentally change settings..
1. Increase HF1-IC to 150.
2. Increase HF1-HI for an output of 14 watts - you will need at least 12 volts input.
3. Decrease HF1-IC until you get 12 watts output
4. Now set HF1-HI for 10 watts output.
5. Repeat for HF2 and HF3
You could also change HF1-L3 to 5 watts to save battery drain when 10 watts isn’t needed.
If you are using an RF Voltmeter the readings are 0.5W=5v 1W=7v 2.5W=11v 5W=16v 10W=22v 12W=24v 14=26v.
To avoid de-calibrating the Voltmeter, set your supply to 13.8 volts – otherwise if you just flick over the DC volts position (Item 17 - VCC) you will recalibrate it.
To save these changed settings, hold the F button for two seconds when finished.
친절하게 잘설명해주셨네요..
2010.04.15 19:32:53 (*.239.41.62)
저는 7,21,50 MHz 가능한 포터블 핸디를 사용해본 적이 있읍니다.
출력은 2-3W 였읍니다.
7,21MHz의 경우, 국내는 1-1.5m정도의 로드안테나를 사용하여 상대시그널이 59이면 교신가능하고, 다이폴등 고정만테나는 의외로 일본등지는 교신이 잘 되었읍니다.
2010.04.17 08:55:58 (*.71.19.193)
두분 OM님 설명 감사합니다.. 10 Watt로 개조하는 방법을 찾았기에, 참고삼아 글 밑부분에 첨부해보았습니다.아무래도 개조하지않그대로 사용하는것이 좋을듯 싶네요.. 대신 휴대용 이온 밧데리를 비상용으로 준비하던가, 또 포터블용 야외안테나를 제작하는방향을 고려해 보겠습니다. 혹시 그걸로 On Air에서 두분과 교신이되면, 더 환상적이겠지요...Hi Hi...즐거운 주말 보내세요..
밧데리를 이온 밧데리로 하시면 좋아요 인터넷에 많이 있습니다